Wilson Gray "For The Meticulous Shopper" For Our Valued Clients THE TIMELESS GIFT OF INFORMATION WILSON GRAY is pleased to provide this valuable and informative guide to purchasing beautiful antique and quality costume jewelry pieces. Use this valuable tool as a resource of information to aid in the process of identifying the piece that is right for you, examining its total makeup, determining its value, making a suitable offer and finally purchasing wonderful pieces of jewelry for your timeless collection. Refer to this guide with confidence & Adorn yourselves proudly! Wear your beautiful pieces in Good Health! Wilson Gray Resale Clothier TABLE OF CONTENTS I. THE HISTORY OF JEWELRY II. HOW TO BUY VINTAGE & COSTUME JEWELRY III. WHEN SELLING YOUR JEWELRY IV. TESTING JEWELRY V. JEWELRY REPAIRS VI. COLLECTING BEAUTIFUL JEWELRY VII. QUESTIONS TO ASK YOURSELF BEFORE YOU BUY VIII. ENCYCLOPEDIA OF JEWELRY TERMS IX. FOR YOUR READING PLEASURE I. THE HISTORY OF JEWELRY When appearance counts, and it most always does, women of distinction and taste adorn themselves with beautiful pieces of vintage and quality costume jewelry. Jewelry has been worn since the earliest of civilizations, and by its very nature, it is magical. It has been used to symbolize emotion, a “lucky charm”, or to bring wealth, happiness and love. A fine piece of vintage or quality costume jewelry is a reflection of the taste and way of life of the individual who dares to flaunt its beauty. For those whose love for jewelry is bigger than life, wearing it can change both the appearance and personality. Should you decide to collect antique or designer costume jewelry, wear it and share your interest with others. Wearing both vintage and quality costume jewelry has its advantages: the unusual workmanship and attention to detail is what you will find in Vintage; originality, quality and craftsmanship are what you will find in modern, better label pieces. The jewelry connoisseur will only purchase the most basic in quality clothing, preferring to spend more time searching for just the right piece of jewelry to complete the desired look. In fact, to this accessory enthusiast, the clothing item is merely a backdrop to the enhancements a beautiful piece of vintage or costume jewelry can provide. One must also understand the terminology when searching for that perfect piece of vintage or designer costume jewelry. For instance, “Estate Jewelry” does not always mean a piece is old. Estate simply means it is pre-owned. “Collectible” means a piece is no longer in production. “Period Jewelry” is a broad term that covers jewelry from a particular era. Circa dating gives an approximate date. For instance, if something is described as “Circa 1860”, this means it was produced somewhere between 1850 and 1870. If you have additional comments, bits or pieces of information to share, please email me at WilsonGray@sbcglobal.net. I would love to hear from vintage and costume jewelry enthusiasts from around the world so that we can build a network of contributing individuals who love the craft and will help perpetuate the love for such a wonderful product. II. HOW TO BUY VINTAGE & COSTUME JEWELRY • A wonderful viewing instrument is the 10X loupe. You will be able to clearly see the workmanship of each piece, view the quality of stones, and look for damage and/or repairs. • Utilize a good lighting source when examining each piece. • Carefully check to make sure all stones are “period certain”, and secure in their settings. When authentic stones are missing, they might be hard to replace. • When considering a purchase at auction, read the “previews” first. Check for any auction fees because these will be added to your final price. Also be mindful and aware of auction reserves. • If you love bartering or bargaining with dealers, always be courteous. Confrontational behavior or belittling their merchandise does not help to get a good deal. Also, do not chat during busy times, considering other customers. Come back at a quieter time. • When you buy from an internet website, always read the “terms and conditions”. If this is not readily visible, email and ask questions regarding returns, refunds, mailing charges, and the like. An informed buyer makes the best choices and will likely experience a seamless transaction. • Price guidelines are helpful, but they are not the last word in final sales. Review the history of any item you are considering. Auction sales can sometimes be affected by emotional or competitive bidding that drives the prices up. • Remember...a happy customer is an informed customer. Read all the material you can find on vintage, antique and quality costume jewelry. Go to the shows, see and handle as much jewelry as you can. III. WHEN SELLING YOUR JEWELRY If you ever decide to sell an item or put it "on consignment" with a dealer, keep in mind that the they need to make a profit too. Every dealer needs to cover the cost of doing business; web site hosting, repairs, photography, displays, transportation, insurance, appraisals, etc. (not to mention lots of time). IV. TESTING YOUR JEWELRY Testing pieces for gold, silver and platinum can be done with a testing stone for acids. Solutions for 10, 14, 18, & 24 Kt.Gold, as well as Platinum and Sterling are available. To Test: Rub the item lightly to make a mark on the stone. Be careful not to damage the finish. Apply an acid solution to the mark. A mark that fades quickly shows that the piece is not the same as the quality of the acid used. If you prefer, the acid can be applied directly to the piece of jewelry. The acid will discolor the piece, so be sure to test a spot that can be easily cleaned. Be very careful, as acids are dangerous if not handled properly. Diamond testers can be purchased through gem suppliers. The least expensive cost approximately $100.00. These can sometimes be fooled by various elements such as dirt on the stones, or if the stone is held improperly. V. JEWELRY REPAIRS Older jewelry is most valuable when kept in its original state. Check pieces to be sure you're aware of any alterations. Since many materials can't withstand the heat needed to apply gold, cold solder is used to make repairs. Check to see if there's any on pieces you're interested in. Make sure the jeweler you use to for repairs understands and appreciates the care needed for older jewelry. Shop for one who understands their fragility and won't over clean or make a repair too "modern" for the time period of the piece. It's best not to arbitrarily change a piece of antique or vintage jewelry. It will also destroy a remnant of the past, so that it's no longer "right" in appearance. Future value will be affected and it will limit buyers, should you ever decide to sell a piece. Don't overlook the possibilities of pieces of jewelry that have been "orphaned" or already have had changes or slight damage. Single earrings, as an example, can be made into pendants without feeling guilty. VI. COLLECTING BEAUTIFUL JEWELRY Collect jewelry you like and will enjoy wearing. If a piece you love is too fragile to wear, display it in a shadow box. Some people like specialized collections, one era, a specific stone, or a certain type - like mourning jewelry or bows. Make photographic records, including descriptions and sales receipts for your jewelry and put in a safe place. Valuable pieces can be stored in a safety deposit box or a home safe. (However, Pearls and Opals need to "breathe" and should not be stored their.) Check with your Homeowner's Insurance policy about listing your jewelry for replacement value. VII. QUESTIONS TO ASK YOURSELF “BEFORE BUYING A PIECE OF JEWELRY” Can I wear it just as it is? Does it need repairs, and will they be affordable? Does the style and look of the piece seem correct for the era it's supposed to be from? Is it well made? Are any repairs evident? Are they well done? Do the clasps close properly? Are the seams tight? Are the hinges in good shape? Are the gemstones identifiable, secure in their settings, and right for the age of the piece? Do I really love it? If the answer is YES, then…. Wear it, Flaunt it, Love it, Enjoy it! Some day, you will pass it along to another wonderful, appreciative enthusiast who will consider it a wonderful treasure for many generations to come! VIII. The Encyclopedia of Jewelry Terms Cannetille - A filigree type of ornamentation made of coiled wires. Popular in the early to middle 1800's. Cabochon - Type of gem cut that has no facets but is rounded and polished. Cairngorm - Yellow-brown Quartz stones from a mountain range in Scotland and found in Victorian Pebble jewelry. Since demand exceeded the supply, the term was also used for stones that are heat-treated to simulate the real stone. Cameo Habille - Type of cameo showing a person wearing jewelry in which one or more gemstones are placed. Chatelaine - An attachment worn at a woman's waist made to hold suspended items for daily household use, like scissors, keys, etc. Chatelaines were made in precious metals as well as cut steel, gold fill, and other materials. Champleve Enamel - An enamel technique using a design cut into a metal base. The design is then filled in with the powdered enamel mixture and fired to "fix" the enamel. The surface is then polished and made level. The word "Champleve" comes from a French word meaning "raised field". Choker - Narrow necklace worn tight around the throat. Cloisonne Enamel - An enamel process made using a technique where metal strips are attached, set on edge, to a background. The enamel mixture is put into the spaces outlined by the metal and the piece is then fired. Demi Parure - A small matching set of jewelry, usually 2-3 pieces. Dog Collar - A type of necklace, wide that fits close to the neck, most popular in the Edwardian era. Enamel - A finish applied by putting a specific powdered mixture of color to metal and heating it to fix it. It's an application that adheres to the top of the metal it's applied to and isn't absorbed. Enameling has been used in jewelry for centuries. There are various types of enameling seen in jewelry that I list independently. Estate Piece - Term used to denote previously owned jewelry, not intended to specify age or to imply that item is an antique. Faux - Term used when an imitation is intended to mimic another substance. For surfaces, a paint finish can be "faux" tortoise - a technique to simulate real Tortoiseshell. In jewelry, faux gems (meant to look real) can be paste, glass, rhinestones, etc. (Not the same as a "synthetic" stone. French Jet - Actually glass, meant to replicate real Jet. Gold Fill - Item covered with a layer of Gold that has been bonded to base metal. Gutta Percha - A Malaysian tree resin used for jewelry popular in the Victorian era. Jet - A coal substance, black or brown-black, in color. Often found in Victorian mourning jewelry, it could be intricately carved, engraved, and polished. Knife Edge Setting - Type of setting, often found in Edwardian jewelry, where a stone is set on the edge of metal wire, making the setting almost invisible. Lace Pin - A small brooch meant to be worn to fasten a lace scarf, usually late Victorian or Edwardian eras. Lavalier, Lavaliere, Lavalliere - Spelled in various ways, a chain necklace with a pendant. Named after a mistress of Louis XIV. Married - Jewelry that is made up of 2 or more items, joined together, to create an entirely new piece. For instance, an old brooch that originally had a c-clasp which has been removed and replaced by a roller clasp. Memento Mori - Literally means, "Remember you must die", in Latin. Used to describe items using motifs that invoke remembrances of death, in general, or the death of a loved one. Micro-Mosaic - An inlay of pieces of colored glass or stone to form pictures or patterns. Millegrain Setting -Way of setting a gemstone into jewelry where small beads of metal encase the gem. Mine Cut - Old type of gemstone faceting, very crudely cut with few facets. Paste - The name comes from the Italian word, "Pasta". A type of glass stone that has been hand-cut, sometimes set with a foil backing. Not to be confused with mass produced rhinestones used in modern jewelry. Parure - A set of matching jewelry, usually made up of earrings, necklace, bracelets and brooch. Pearls - Baroque - Irregularly shaped pearl, can be natural or cultured Blister - Pearl taken from a shell, usually hollow, where an irritant has lodged and been covered with layers of nacre. Cultured - Artificially produced made by placing an irritant inside the oyster where it is covered with layers of nacre. First available in the 1920's. Freshwater - Produced in freshwater mussels. Mabe - A cultured pearl usually of teardrop shape, flat on one side. Natural - Pearls that have occurred naturally, usually found now only in antique jewelry. Pieta Dura - Term used to described an item made up of a mosaic of hard-stones. Pinchbeck - A lost formula for an alloy of Copper & Zinc. Used to make items that look like Gold. Pique - Jewelry, typically of tortoise shell, where designs have been inlaid with tiny pieces of Silver or Gold. Plique a Jour - An enamel process where the design is outlined with metal and the enamel is applied to create a stained glass effect. Often a copper backplate held the enamel in place until it hardened and then the copper was dissolved in acid. A fragile art form, particularly found in Art Nouveau jewelry. Riviere - A chain necklace set with stones, all of one specific type, in graduated sizes. Rolled Gold - Heavy Gold plating over a base metal. Rose Cut - An older type of gemstone cut with faceting that has a flat base and pointed top. Usually has 24 triangular facets. There are several variations of this basic cut found in antique jewelry. Synthetic Stone - A real gem, man-made, with all the properties of the natural gemstone. Not the same as "imitation" or "faux" stones. Sautoir - Long necklace that extends below the waist. They sometimes have a pendant or tassel on the bottom. Tessarae - Small mosaic pieces used in Micro Mosaics and Pieta Dura jewelry. Tremblant - Type of jewelry incorporating a section that moves within the design. Often the movement is caused by a section being mounted on a tiny spring that "trembles" as the jewelry wearer moves about. Vermeil - Denotes a silver piece plated with gold. Vulcanite - Lightweight black-brown substance made of heated india-rubber and sulphur. Used in Victorian mourning jewelry. Watch Cock - Interior part of a pocket watch, very ornamental, that is removed and used to make other items of jewelry. Often, the watch clocks are Georgian made into jewelry during the Victorian era. IX. For Your Reading Pleasure A partial list of books to help you learn more about antique jewelry. Note the various spellings of "jewelry" and "jewellery". --- Ms. Gwendolyn Price Guides : Antique Jewelry with Prices - Doris Snell Paperback, limited subject matter with B&W photos Art Nouveau & Art Deco Jewelry - Lillian Miller Paperback, Color photos Fun Jewelry - Nancy Schiffer Paperback, color photos The Official Identification & Price Guide to Jewelry - Arthur Guy Kaplan Paperback, B& W photos Price Guides with Informative Text : Buyer's Guide to Affordable Jewelry - Anna Miller Paperback, readable, informative, B&W photos Fabulous Costume Jewelry - Vivienne Baker Hardback, readable, informative, color photos Old Jewelry 1840 - 1950 - Jeanenne Bell Paperback, B&W photos, organized by era Popular Jewelry 1840 - 1940 - Roseann Ettinger Paperback, color photos & period B&W illustrations Understand Jewellery - Bennett & Mascetti Hardback, readable, informative w/ color photographs Warman's Jewelry - Christie Romero Paperback, B&W photos, a few in color Books to Learn By: Antique and Twentieth Century Jewellery - Vivienne Becker Hardback, history of jewelry, informative text, color photos Decorative Art Library: Jewelry - Edited by Lydia Darbyshire Hardback, history of jewelry - ancient through 1989, color photos Jewellery 1789 - 1910 - Shirley Bury Hardback, history of jewelry, informative text, color photos Jewelry in America 1600 - 1900 - Martha Fales Hardback, history of jewelry, informative text, color photos Starting to Collect Antique Jewellery - John Benjamin Hardback, readable, information, color photos Understanding Jewellery - Bennett & Mascetti Hardback, history of jewelry, informative text, color photos Jewelry of the Rich & Famous: Faberge and the Russian Master Goldsmiths - Gerard Hill Hardback, oversized photos The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor - Culme & Raynor Hardback, color photos - Information on jewelry and the lives of the Ducke and Duchess of Windsor The Queen's Jewel's - Leslie Field Paperback & hardback - Photos of jewelry as worn by members of the British royal family ~~~~~~ Our Best Wishes To You As You Become The Consummate Resale Shopper, Adorned in Timeless Jewels, Always Meticulously Fashionable, Always In Style! Here’s To You, Cheers! Wilson Gray Resale Clothier www.wilsongray@sbcglobal.net ~~~~~~~~